Drummond Custom Cycles

Scott Foil (Brad Sheehan)

admin — Tue, 21 Feb 2012 17:33:52 +0000

The opportunity to ride and eventually buy a Scott Foil came up after I drove my Scott Addict Team into the garage on the roof of the car. Ouch. The top tube of the Addict was destroyed and I was suddenly in the market for a replacement.

I’d ridden the Addict Team (integrated seat post version) for a full season and for the most part, really liked the bike. It was very light, at around 800g for the frame, very stiff, and fit me well. The down side to the bike was that it could be a bit harsh on longer rides – translating every bump up through your saddle and bars. After 4 hours, this was very evident, and if I could change anything about the bike, that would be it.

I’d done some homework on the Foil prior to making the trip up to Drummond Cycles for a test ride. I’d read reviews, specs, forums – you name it. There were a couple of things that resonated through all of what I found: the Foil was a great riding bike, possessing a lot of the characteristics of the Addict and, more concerning to me, the Foil was VERY stiff and uncomfortable to ride.

So to keep things consistent, I brought my wheels with me to put on the Foil for the test ride and Dick helped me set it up to match my position from my Addict.

With the bike feeling familiar, we headed out into the balmy 28 degree weather on the not-so-smooth Enfield roads… Perfect conditions for testing just how comfortable the bike would be over the long haul.

Almost immediately, you feel the stiffness of the bike: both torsional stiffness of the front end and the lateral stiffness of the bottom bracket. It’s very stiff – stiffer than the Addict, which up until that point was at the top of the list for me. As a result, the Foil doesn’t feel snappy or quick, like a bike that gives a little and then snaps back. Instead it feels rock solid, robust and stable.

The compliance of the ride is by no means a steel touring bike, but it didn’t possess the same sharp ride that I’d been accustomed to over the past year. For me, the configuration of an adjustable seat post vs. an integrated post was a large factor in the comparison.

The Foil rides like a race bike – very positive feel, precise, but not to the point where you feel like you’re fighting it. For me, it was more comfortable than what I’d been riding, yet still processed the qualities I appreciate the most in a race bike.

What’s most interesting to me about the Foil is that it was designed as an aero bike, yet it doesn’t ride like one. The narrow tubes with tall profiles of the most popular aero bikes today, lead all to often to a harsh ride with poor lateral stiffness. This is simply not a factor with the Foil. If you didn’t realize that the Foil was designed in the wind tunnel, you probably wouldn’t think aerodynamics were a design factor given its superb ride characteristics, or the shapes of the tubes.

Evidently, Scott worked with aerodynamicist, Simon Smart, who also helped perfect the Plasma, to design the Foil. They approached the aerodynamics a bit differently than the standard ‘wing’ air foil shape. Instead, Scott focused on low speed aerodynamics, using speeds more common to cycling, not aircraft. Smart tapped into his time developing struts for Formula 1 cars to design the truncated air foil shape, which retains much of the stiffness and ride quality of a round tube, yet creates a sort of virtual air foil by directing the air around the leading edge of the tube the same way that a true air foil shape does. The result is, supposedly, an aerodynamic frame that competes with the most aerodynamic road bikes on the market while retaining excellent ride quality, stiffness and low weight of some of the best ’round’ tube road bikes on the market. Sort of the best of both worlds…

So the million dollar question has to be, how fast is it? Well, it’s hard to say for sure. I don’t I have a wind tunnel, nor does that kind of data matter much once you’re out on the road. What I can say is that it does feel fast. The feeling, although more subtle, is not dissimilar to a good set of aero wheels. When you put a set of HED Stingers on your bike, for example, it’ll be faster, it will be easier to maintain speed and it will continue to accelerate on downhills. The Foil has a similar affect. The faster you go, the greater the benefit.

If you’re in the market for a new race bike, I can highly recommend the Foil. It’s hard to say if it’s the bike for you, though since so much of it is personal preference. The best advice I could give would be to stop in at Drummond Cycles and take one for a test ride. Regardless, of whether it’s your next bike or not, I’m convinced you’ll walk away from the experience thoroughly impressed.

Brad Sheehan

Brad Sheehan is a cat 1 rider with 10 years of racing experience. He is also Founder/Creative Director at SGD, a design firm specializing in sports-related branding and design. Most recently racing for the MetLife Cycling team, a program which he also managed and directed for seven years, as well as having many high profile clients within the cycling industry, Brad brings a broad perspective and a breadth of knowledge to the bike.
Since the birth of his son a year ago, Brad has taken a step back from the racing scene, but still gets out on the the bike regularly, often times towing his son along in the bike trailer. He can also be found on local group rides and training races in and around the Concord area.

Guru Photon Review (Dick Drummond)

admin — Tue, 21 Feb 2012 17:28:53 +0000

I have been selling Guru bikes for the past 4 years and quite pleased with the service that I have received even though I am a small volume dealer. I have ridden several of their bikes that have passed through the shop. I even had a custom Geneo built to my specs… which I sold to a customer at the end of that season. I am a frame builder so a lot of my time is spent riding one of my own custom creations. I Have sold several of the Photons over the past 2 years, however never had the opportunity to ride one in my size. During a visit to my shop, Robert Pinazza of Guru started to inquire if I had even ridden the Photon. We were talking about the success of another manufacturer that had sent me a frame for next to nothing and how I truly liked the ride quality. Well this didn’t sit well with Robert so he threatened to send me his own personal frame that was coming out of the paint department the following week. It just so happens that he rides a 58- a perfect fit for me. I promised him if he sent it I would spend some time on it and give an honest impression.

Well,the bike showed up in my shop as a framest in the beginning of February in New Hampshire. The paint work is beautiful albeit a little on the feminine side (they are Canadian after all). I ended up building the bike with an Ultegra electric group. Reynolds carbon tubulars 66/46 up front. Easton carbon crank, Carbon Revl brakes, and Pro logo Scratch pro saddle. I didn’t spend much time in the setup knowing that I would have some time to adjust to the bike.

My first ride was about 37 degrees with some pretty rough pavement to really get an idea of the ride quality. I was out for just under 3 hours with a group of knuckleheads so needless to say the bike was put through its paces. After downloading the ride I realized that on the first ride I hit 53mph. The bike never felt twitchy. For me getting off the bike after 3 hrs I felt great so I had nailed the setup. I definitely hit some pretty big holes in the road riding in a paceline at 30mph but it never upset the bike or me. The BB stiffness was perhaps less than my Scott Addict but perhaps a tad stiffer than a Parlee Z5. I would say that the ride quality is definitely smoother than the Addict. The steering of the bike is exact. I love the ride of the ENVE fork- it is my personal favorite.

When we finished the ride I had a big smile on my face. Thinking back on the ride it was perhaps the climbing that really stood out. The bike just seems to disappear under you whether you are out of the saddle or seated and that is saying a lot because I am not a small person at about 190lbs. I am not perhaps the best tech reviewer nor claim to know all of the product out there. I do however know that I am looking forward to the next ride on the PHOTON which will be in about 3hrs. Since I have built this up I find myself trying different routes and different surfaces to test its capabilities. Robert is going to personally have to come and pry the bike away from me because I do not want to give it back.
I will have more on the bike as I rack up some mileage– so far just 150 miles.

Dick Drummond
Drummond Custom Cycles
Enfield NH

Gene’s Cycling Goals

admin — Mon, 06 Feb 2012 18:33:45 +0000

Having goals is one of the most important facets of being a cyclist. It allows us to fulfill the desire of achievement and helps us focus on how to improve in a realistic way. That being said, there is no motivation like injury and illness to make a cyclist claw his way back to the level of riding that he left behind. It is the memory of fitness that and how fun it feels to really put a bike through the paces at the peak of fitness that drives us to achieve the same or better form heading into a new season. Many cyclists, myself included start riding in the early season with the kind of intensity they had in August thinking that they can ride a bike just as fast as when they hung it up, what entails is a rude awakening. Rather than a rude awakening, this year I’ll allow my body to come out of hibernation with a strategic pyramid of accumulated mileage for racing in mid-April. It’s February 2nd and I have less than 100 miles of riding in my legs since the end of November. After a groin injury in November, a back injury in December and a bout of Pneumonia that has lasted three weeks in January I’ve got my work cut out for me if I’m going to renew my USCF license as a CAT 2. At this point I should probably drop down to a 5, but I like a challenge. Having this much time off the bike has allowed me to fulfill all of the cravings that I needed to pack on an extra 20 lbs. My (Current weight is 194. This summer I was 174.) My ideal weight for climbing the hills around the Upper Valley at a respectable speed is 170. So, now that my antibiotics are done, I’ve 2 completed two solid days of “running”. As a time crunched parent of two, this is the only viable solution to shedding the lb’s. (Insert photo of panting Michelin man) The Tuesday night trainer sessions will be key to launching my early season fitness program to get shape for some early season racing at the Tour of the Battenkill in 72 days, or around 10 weeks. Losing 20 lbs in 10 weeks will be tough without going overboard on training and burning all my matches in the early season. Gotta save something for racing in August. So how does one get ready for an 80 mile race in ten weeks with zero fitness? The answer is LSD. Not the psychedelic, but Long Steady Distance, which in effect creates it’s own kind of endorphin based stimulatory hallucinations, or in this case delusions of racing grandeur. My basic formula will include accumulating the miles necessary to prepare the body. Good fuel in and bad shit out. Rest where I can get, when I need it. Increasing the mileage over the first three weeks will have me riding around 200 miles over 5 days by the third week in addition to running 15-20 miles a week with two days off the bike. The next 3 weeks will have an increase in mileage to 300 mi. by the sixth week, riding 6 days a week with lots of long, seated climbs on odd days, light intervals and sprint work 2 days a week. At this point I may cut out running altogether or at least reduce the time running to 15 min. a day. The seventh week should allow me to mix in some longer intervals with about half the mileage. The eighth week will include intervals on odd days, sprint workouts 2 days, and 2 days of long rides over 85 miles. The ninth week will be slow taper down in mileage and intensity with a focus on sprint drills 3 days a week. The final week leading up to the race is for rest with easy spinning for about 1.5 hours a day. In addition, I’ll do no sort of weight training as I’m lacking in a gym membership or time but I will include a daily routine of 200 push-ups, 100 tricep dips across two chairs, 200 crunches, 80 leg raises, lunges and squats with 30 lb. dumbells and lots of stretching. I’ll usually do jumping jacks or jump rope in between sets to keep the heart up. Without core strength you’ve got nothing and your back will let you know early in an eighty mile road race whether or not your going to have the strength to sprint to the line. The race is on, let’s see how this unfolds…

Rim Profiles and the Effect on Aerodynamics

admin — Tue, 24 Jan 2012 18:18:35 +0000

Aerodynamics is key in addressing the way a wheel should be built. I personally love a deep section rim with fewer spokes because it changes the entire ride characteristic of your bike and requires less effort to maintain speed. I use a 66 mm. deep carbon wheel for all around riding and they really shine on race day. I use shallower aluminum rims for training where the increased weight and wind resistance aids in training. Switching over to the deeper rims for racing just makes the bike feel so much faster. Deeper section rims provide the best aerodynamics to stiffness ratio. The only downfall of an aerodynamic rim is that more material is needed to make a deeper section rim and they tend to be heavier. Deep section rims range from around 30 mm. to 90 mm. deep. Carbon fiber rims provide the best benefit of a deeper aero profile without the weight penalty of an aluminum rim. Carbon rims can be built much deeper than aluminum rims but with much less weight than a similar profle aluminum rim. Case in point: a Mavic Open Pro rim with an 18 mm depth weighs about 430 grams. A 46 mm deep carbon rim weighs 450 grams. Because carbon is very strong it can be built with less spokes, thereby reducing overall wheel weight compared to the Open Pro built with 32 spokes, and it will still be stiffer. Carbon rims are commonly found in incremental depths averaging 35 mm., 45 mm., 65 mm., and 80 mm. In this regard they are ideal, but quite expensive. A good compromise is to use a 27- 38 mm. deep aluminum rim to keep the cost and weight down when looking for an affordable aero wheel. The deeper the rim the more aerodynamic and stiff it will be.

This is not to say that lower profile rims cannot be built to be stiff. A traditional box section rim can be built using more spokes to get be quite stiff. In effect, this will increase the weight and lower the drag co-efficient, making them a less aerodynamic option. Most aero aluminum and carbon rims are built with fewer spokes, typically between 16-24 on the front wheel and 20-28 spokes on the rear. Using fewer spokes reduces the overall weight of the wheel and provides better aerodynamics by decreasing turbulent airflow or increasing the drag co-efficient. Traditional aluminum box section rims vary in depth from 18-27 mm. Rim depth greatly affects the ride quality of a wheel. Lower profile or shallow depth rims provide a lively ride quality that has better rebound and can dampen the ride. This, in part, is due to the fact that there is less material to provide rigidity as well as the use of longer spokes required to build the wheel, which provide more “spring”.

If you watch the spring classics such as Fleche Wallone, Flanders or Paris-Roubaix you’ll see a large number of riders on traditional box section aluminum rims built with 32 or 36 spokes per wheel. This is because the tenacious nature of these races drives riders over the roughest roads and teams use them because they provide the greatest amount of strength and comfort in the most adverse conditions. Increased spoke count on a wheel improves durability and makes them easier to repair by more evenly distributing the tension of the wheel to all of the spokes.

Reduce spoke count wheels have greater tension which puts a significantly higher amount of strain on the rim. The high tension makes for one responsive wheel that can transform a bike from feeling soggy to crisp. But because of this higher tension, when a spoke breaks on an aluminum wheel, the rim will often permanently distort making it irreparable even when a spoke is replaced and the wheel is brought back up to the correct tension. Catastrophic failures of this nature make exotic aluminum wheels a gamble when riding over cobblestones. Carbon Fiber rims do not suffer from this malady as the material has what is referred to as infinite memory. Meaning, it is highly elastic and will continue to bend and return to its original shape. Every material has its limitations in terms of memory but carbon fiber has very high strength to weight ratio and requires incredible force to break when strained laterally. Carbon has low impact resistance but is incredibly strong when stressed compared to aluminum. These properties in addition to its compliant ride quality and dampening characteristics make it an ideal material for rims used when riding on rough surfaces and many professional riders use carbon wheels in the spring classics. Of course, cost is a major factor when considering using carbon rims and teams have a quiver of wheels provided by sponsors. The traditional box section rims are still used by traditionalists who rely on their tried and true durability.

In addition, the box section rims used by professional racers are tubular rims. Tubular rims are built without the taller bead of a clincher rim and require that the tire is glued to the rim. I will cover tubular vs. clincher tires in another article. The tubular rim can be constructed using less material and is inherently lighter than their clincher counterparts. Tubular rims are used for this purpose and provide the benefit of running larger volume tires at lower pressure, contributing to a smoother ride quality from the added cushion, making them faster on rough roads or for cyclocross.

When considering the type of material to use when building a rim it is important to take into consideration the type of conditions that they will be subject to. After all a wheel set is an investment that you want to get the most out of without having to save them for special events or ideal riding conditions. Professional riders use carbon rims for all types of racing and training but they require more maintenance than an aluminum rim because the braking surface is more prone to wear when introducing dirt, sand and rain between the pad and rim. Big teams have big budgets and wheel sponsors provide them with multiple sets of wheels to use day in and day out. For the everyday cyclist who is considering investing in a set of carbon hoops regular maintenance will prevent wear but be advised, if you ride all winter and never clean them after riding in the rain and slush the braking surface will wear significantly faster than an aluminum rim. Many people use them for everyday riding because the performance of the wheels is addictive, but if you want your investment to last then it is best to save them for race day or use them in dry weather.

Trainer class canceled 1/19

admin — Thu, 19 Jan 2012 21:18:04 +0000

There will be no trained class this evening (Thursday, 1/19).

Please make sure to RSVP for future classes!

Trainer class canceled, 1/12

admin — Thu, 12 Jan 2012 19:19:11 +0000

Due to today’s weather, we will not be having our Ladies Night trainer class this evening. We hope to see you all next week!

Winter Training Classes at Drummond Cycles

admin — Mon, 09 Jan 2012 14:03:40 +0000

Here at Drummond Cycles our winter training classes have begun and we have been having a great time.

We now have two classes going:

Tuesday nights at 6pm – everyone is welcome.

Thursday nights at 6pm – LADIES ONLY.

Come on down for a fantastic workout in a fun and relaxed atmosphere.

If you have any questions please contact us at the shop – 603.632.4277

What Makes a Wheel ‘Wheel’ Fast?

admin — Wed, 04 Jan 2012 16:25:48 +0000

Hello there, speedfreaks! Today we are going more into depth about wheels, talking about what makes a wheel fast. There are four components to look at: hubs, spokes, nipples and rims. Depending on the terrain, a wheel is fast under any given circumstances in which it preforms the best. A wheel that responds coming out of a corner is fast. A wheel that is lightweight will take less effort to spin up to speed and feel like it defies gravity going uphill is fast. A disc wheel on the back of your bike can transform your bike into a freight train that there’s no slowing down once you get over 28 mph. A deep carbon wheelset will react to every pedal stroke, etc…

But at the center of every wheels is a hub. A hub that rolls fast is the best hub, duh… There are many options to select a hub that has high quality construction and bearings. Sealed bearing hubs from DT Swiss like the 240s or 190 which uses ceramic bearings and a lightweight freehub body. White industries H2 (front) and H3 (rear) are renowned for their quality craftsmanship and show finish– these hubs use high quality bearings, tight machine tolerances and a titanium freehub body that has the strength of steel with the light weight of aluminum. Chris King hubs are amazing as well and have the renowned durability and quality that their name has come to be recognized with, providing a unique engagement system that transfers your power quicker than you can say breakaway. Of course, there is the old standby: Shimano. These guys set the standard in design with their Dura Ace hubs, using loose ball bearings, their bearing surfaces are precision machined to give the smoothest and most durable rotation assembly available.

Choosing the right rim is precedent because you want something that is the best for the type of road feel and slippery wind cheating shape. On flat terrain where aerodynamics comes into play such as in a breakaway or time trial, a deeper section rim with a reduced spoke count or bladed spokes is best. A deeper section rim effectively reduces the spoke length needed to build a wheel, creating a stiffer stronger wheel. A stiff wheel is needed when a rider applies a great deal of lateral force to the bike when sprinting and climbing. Stiffness of a wheel reduces the lateral flex, thereby increasing the power transfer from the pedals to perpetuate forward motion. So rather than flexing side to side, a stiff wheel will allow a rider to get the maximum amount of power to the ground to go faster. We’ll (Wheel) talk about rim selection in the upcoming post.

Let the terrain dictate the kind of wheel that will be the fastest for you. If comfort helps you go faster over rough roads, shallower rims are best. If pure speed is what you after than a deeper section rim with less spokes will improve the aerodynamics of your bike. Aero spokes will make it even faster. If you are a bigger rider, this may not apply and using more, thicker gauge spokes in a wheel will make you faster because there will be less chance chance that you will break a spoke and not be able to finish a ride or race.

Spinning class starts January 3rd

admin — Mon, 02 Jan 2012 17:50:04 +0000

We’ll be starting trainer classes this week! We’ll be spinning Tuesday evenings at 6pm.
All you need is your bike and riding gear– we have plenty of SuperMagneto Pro trainers from Saris. Each class will run for approximately 90 minutes.

This Tuesday, January 3rd, Dick will be leading class and focusing on high cadence and one leg drills.

Please EMAIL drummondco@aol.com or call the shop at 603-632-4277 to let us know if you’ll can attend.

Hope to see you there!!

Choosing the right wheels for your bike

admin — Mon, 19 Dec 2011 02:38:15 +0000

How do I choose the right wheels for my bike?

There are several considerations to make when selecting the right wheels for your bike. Keep in Mind the following questions when choosing a wheelset:

What type of riding do you do? Aggressive sprinter, svelte climber, rolleur etc… The right rim, spoke count and lacing pattern, as well as hub quality can make a world of difference when built specifically for a specific type of riding.

Most of us want a wheel that can do it all. But hold on, there has to be a compromise, right?

Are you looking for a wheel that is durable, light, aerodynamic, or all three? The answer to this question is– how much do you want to spend? There is always a compromise that can be made when it comes to cost. Even the most budget conscious rider can get on a wheel that is aerodynamic and stiff. A general rule of thumb is the lighter the wheelset, typically the more it will cost. Given an individual budget, all three characteristics are within reach. Performance aluminum wheels range in price from around $500-$1500. Wheels built using carbon rims range in price starting at $1,000 up to $6,000. Finding the right wheels with the characteristic you’re looking for don’t have to cost an arm and a leg. There is a way to get the additional speed you’re looking for even with an affordable pair of wheels.

How much do you weigh? Rider weight has a large bearing on the performance of any given wheel. A wheel that is stiff and durable for a rider that weighs 140 lbs may not be stiff or strong enough for a 190 lb. rider. Specific spoke counts and lacing patterns, rim styles and weights all affect the characteristics of a wheel.

So how do you know what will work best for a specific application or all around riding? Experience is the definitive answer but I will clarify the type of components that make a good wheel for a specific rider in the upcoming posts.